McRonald’s Chalk Bucket Pattern

Pattern for the mega chalk bucket modeled after a McDonald’s takeout bag. You know the one. Anyways here’s what I have so far:

Finished dimensions: 9” W x 7” L x 12” H

Input

For the lining and pocket:

• Flannel (x2) 17″ W x 7.5″ H
• Ripstop (x2) 17″ W x 9.5″ H
• Ripstop (x2) 10″ W x 9″ H

For the exterior (4-Panel Version):

• Heavyweight Fabric* (x4) 9″ W x 18″ H
• Zipper 5″-7″ long** (x1)
• Mesh Fabric (x2) 9″ W x 6.5″ H
• Fold-over Elastic 1″-width (x2) 9″ piece
• Elastic 2″-width (x1) 6″ piece
• Velcro 1″-width (x1) 6″ piece
• Nylon Webbing 3/4″-width (x2) 2″ piece

*I’m using Pellon 808 iron-on interfacing combined with cotton quilting fabric and/or corduroy in the video. (I’m expecting you to get this sorted before we begin btw)

**Measure zippers from stopper to stopper (this is different from the tape length which generally extends beyond the zipper about 0.5″-1″ on either end)

Begin Instructions

1 Assemble the lining

Pair each piece of 17″ W x 7.5″ H flannel with a corresponding 17″ W x 9.5″ H piece of ripstop. Pin or clip along the 17″ side and stitch together with 1/2″ SA (seam allowance). Open, press seam towards flannel and top-stitch 1/8″ from edge (you’re stitching on the flannel side to secure down the seam allowance).

With the front and back lining pieces right-sides-together, stitch across the bottom 17″ W edge leaving a 4″-5″ gap for turning in the center.

Fold the bottom of the lining up 4″ and pin or clip in place. Stitch down the sides of the lining at 1/2″ SA. Stitch again 1/8″ away for added strength. Your lining is complete put it aside until Step 9.

2 Make the zipper panel

[1/4″ foot or zipper foot]

With one of the four exterior panels upright in front of you, pin or clip one of the 10″ W x 9″ H pieces of ripstop on top of the exterior panel against the right side (the pretty side) 4″ from the bottom of the panel and 3″ from the side that will be the edge of the finished bag (in the video example, that is the right side). Draw a vertical line the length of your zipper centered from top to bottom of the pocket and 2.5″ from the center front of the bag.

Stitch 1/4″ away forming a rectangle around this line. Now cut with scissors (rotary blade can be used to get started) directly along the line you just stitched around. At the ends, clip in to the corners being very careful not to cut your stitching. Push all of the ripstop into the hole you just created and neaten up the seams carefully finger-pressing as needed. It can help to pin back the lining if your fabric isn’t holding a fold nicely.

With the zipper centered in the opening you just created, top-stitch around the perimeter of the opening using a 1/8″ SA. This secures the zipper in the opening. Flip the panel over and align the second pocket lining square over the first. Pin or clip in place. Stitch around the entire perimeter of the two pocket panels first at 1/4″ SA and then again at 1/8″ SA for extra strength.

3 Make the elastic/brush panel

With one of the four exterior panels upright in front of you, place the 6″ piece of 1″ or 2″ wide elastic 9″ from the top and 4.25″ from the side of the panel that will be the center front/back of the finished bag (in the video example, that is the left side). Stitch 1/4″ from edge of elastic. Fold the elastic back towards the center front/back of the finished bag. Pin or clip the edge of the elastic so that it aligns with the edge of the panel. Stitch 1/4″ from edge to secure. Distribute the remaining elastic somewhat evenly and top-stitch vertically to create three separate loops.

4 Make the mesh panels

[zig-zag foot]

Pin or clip each piece of 9″ fold-over elastic to the top of the mesh pieces so that the mesh edge is enclosed in the fold of the elastic. Zig-zag stitch down the center of the folded elastic piece to secure it. My settings were width: 3, length: 1.

Mark each remaining exterior panel with a line 4″ from the bottom of the panel. Place the mesh piece so that it overlaps the line you just made by 1/4″ towards the top of the panel (i.e. the mesh is upside down compared to its final orientation). Pin it in place and stitch along the line (1/4″ SA from edge of mesh). Fold the mesh back up over itself and top-stitch 1/8″ from the edge of the mesh. This will secure down the raw mesh edge inside the pocket. Stitch up each side of the mesh pocket using 1/4″ SA.

5 Assemble the front and back panels

With right sides together, stitch the left front panel to the right front panel along the bag’s center front (CF) using 1/2″ SA. Be sure the bits and pieces are all where they need to be in order to not get caught in the stitching. The pocket especially. Top-stitch the seam allowance to one side or the other wherever possible. This adds strength to the seam. Repeat with the left back panel and right back panel along the bag’s center back (CB).

6 Attach the Velcro and Pull-Tabs

[zig-zag foot]

Line up the velcro edge with the top edge of the bag’s right side (velcro should be facing up) and pin it in place down the center front/back of the bag. Choose wisely here because typically the prickly side of the velcro represents the FRONT of your bag. You probably want the scratchy stuff rolled away and soft stuff up top when the bag is stored away so it doesn’t snag on things.

At the bottom end of each piece of velcro pin or clip a folded piece of nylon webbing so that the two webbing edges overlap the velcro’s bottom edge by 1/8″. It can be tricky to get this to stay in place while stitching so you can baste them together now if that helps.

Zig-zag stitch around the entire perimeter of the velcro to secure it to the bag. As you pass over the bottom edge of the velcro, switch to a wider shorter-length stitch and make several passes to create a nice strong join between the pull-tab and the bag. I used width:2 length:2 to attach the velcro and width:3 length:0.5 to attach the pull-tab.

7 Attach front and back panels

Just like it sounds. Right sides together, stitch the front and back panels together at the sides using 1/2″ SA. Be sure the bits and pieces are all where they need to be in order to not get caught in the stitching. The pocket especially. Top stitch the seam allowance to one side or the other wherever possible. This adds strength to the seam.

8 Create the base

With the wrong side still out, mark vertical lines on the front and back of the bag 4″ from the left and 4″ from the right. These are your fold lines. Fold the bag’s side seams in towards the center at these fold lines. Focus especially on the bottom of the bag. Pin or clip in place along the bottom only. Stitch across the bottom with 1/2″ SA. Stitch again 1/8″ towards the edge to add strength.

9 Attach exterior to lining

With the exterior right-side-out and the lining wrong-side-out, insert the exterior into the lining. Right sides should be facing. Match the side-seams and pin or clip in place so that the top edge of the lining is aligned with the top edge of the exterior piece. Distribute the lining evenly between the side-seams (it helps to pull it open by the side-seams). Stitch around the perimeter with a 1/2″ SA. Take your time passing the entire chalk bucket through the opening you left when constructing the lining.

Once the chalk bag is right way out, fold in the seam allowance of the gap you used to turn. Clip or pin it closed and top-stitch to secure 1/8″ from the edge.

Tuck the lining into the bag and push out the corners and edges until it forms a nicely boxed bottom. The exterior will naturally want to overlap to the interior of the bag by ~1″. Measure around the top and finger-press to make sure this overlap is consistent and pin or clip in place. Top-stitch around the lining of the bag 1/4″ from the seam.

10 Add creases on sides

Mark vertical lines 3.5″ to the left and right of both side seams on the bag. Fold the bag in along the lines. (Make sure the lining is where you want it!) You don’t need to fold all the way to the bottom of the bag but go as far as you can to make sewing it easier. Pin or clip in place and make a mark at 5″ from the top on each folded edge. Top-stitch these folds in place 1/8″ from the edge from the top to the mark at 5″.